Cyrus Mason - the Buonarotti Club and 'Woodyats', Tynong

 I was going through Trove combining various words with Koo Wee Rup as a search term to see what I could discover and came up with an article in The Argus of August 10, 1929 on the Buonarotti Club - it was titled Buonarotti Club: Bohemians of the 'Eighties - Memories of noted artists by L.T. Luxton (1)

Stephen F. Mead, wrote a  history of the club, The Search for Artistic Professionalism in Melbourne: the activities of the Buonarotti Club, 1883 -1887 which was published in the State Library of Victoria's La Trobe Journal in December 2011, read it here. I have extracted a few paragraphs from his article.

Stephen Mead writes - The Buonarotti Club was instigated by the engraver, draughtsman and artist, Cyrus Mason in May 1883 at the Prince's Bridge Hotel (Young and Jackson's), on the corner of Swanston and Flinders Streets, in Melbourne.  It flourished for the next four years, eventually concluding its activities during September 1887. Mason was well acquainted with colonial literary, artistic and bohemian circles long before forming the Buonarotti Club, especially through his membership of Melbourne's Yorick Club. In the 1860s, he was one of the first illustrators of the Colonial Monthly edited by his friend Marcus Clarke, then the source of early Melbourne's Bohemian attitudes.

The Club was a professional artists' organisation that utilised literature and music to build the group into a more comprehensive artistic institution, distinct from other art and cultural societies of the period. Although it was divided into three 'sections' – 'Artistic', 'Literary' and 'Musical'- its membership consisted mainly of men and women who aspired to be professional painters. These included Frederick McCubbin, Louis Abrahams, Tom Roberts and Jane Sutherland. Admittedly literary clubs and societies were very popular in Melbourne during the 1880s, as demonstrated by the existence of the Shakespeare Society, the Shelley Society, the Burns Society and the Lamb Society. It must be stressed, however, that these groups were purely and proudly made up of amateurs, not professional writers. The Buonarotti Club differed from them in that it was artist-dominated, with members who possessed professional goals. These included painters who desired instruction, a cross fertilization of ideas and the opportunity to exhibit and receive critique from their peers to assist them in their participation in the commercial Melbourne art world.

The name of the Club 'Buonarotti' had been proposed by the founder, Cyrus Mason, to honour Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (1475-1564), the great Italian sculptor, painter, draughtsman and architect.

Stephen Mead concludes his article with Despite its early demise, it must be recognised that significant achievements were made of the Buonarotti Club in building up a strong code of artistic professionalism to meet the needs and challenges faced by artists of the period in Melbourne, even fostering a strong sense of artistic bohemianism in the city, and played a pivotal role with that group of artists who formed the now-designated Heidelberg School of painters. (2)

Richmond Road in 1883 by Cyrus Mason

State Library of Victoria Image H2012.271

Cyrus Mason, the founder of the Club, had a property at Tynong where he hosted artists who had painting expeditions to the shores of the Koo Wee Rup Swamp. The Koo Wee Rup Swamp, of 40,000 hectares, was drained between 1889 and 1893, you can read about it here. This means that when the members of the Buonarotti Club saw the swamp it was in its natural state and undrained. How wonderful it would be to see paintings and drawings of that.

The 1929 article in The Argus that I referred to at the start of this post had an interview with a Club member, Louis Lavater, a musician. Louis shared his memories which were of the out-of-doors excursions rather than the social activities of the Buonarotti; of finding a tiger snake as a bed companion on an excursion to Eaglemont and of killing it with a walking stick and nonchalantly turning over and going to sleep again; of happy-go-lucky painting camps on the shores of the Koo-wee-rup Swamp.

"Often we used to set out from Mr. Cyrus Mason's estate at Tynong for the old Koo-wee-rup swamp, with a loaf of bread, a bag of tomatoes, a bag of oysters, bottles of beer and plenty of cigarettes," said Mr. Lavater. "Painting was the first object of the expeditions, but the rough life had a zest all its own which appealed strongly to all of us and the humour! I wonder whether humour is gone from the bush roads when I think of the incidents of those excursions. I remember that there was a dear old couple who lived on an island in the swamp, who received a letter from a Melbourne solicitor stating that they had been left a small sum of money. The old woman, who was aged 84 years - four years older than her husband-was keenly conscious of her husband's youthfulness, and it was with the greatest reluctance that she allowed him to go to Melbourne to arrange a settlement with the solicitor. She used to tell us that every time she thought of her husband among 'those Melbourne hussies' she had a 'paroxum.' Her stern disapproval of our bathing in the swamp apparently caused her a few more 'paroxums,' for she used to come down and seize our clothes and stalk away with them in righteous indignation." (3)

Map of the Colony of Victoria designed, lithographed and printed by Cyrus Mason, 1854.

State Library of Victoria click here to see a high resolution version http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/119498

Cyrus Mason was born in London in 1829. He undertook an apprenticeship as a lithographer and in the May of 1853 arrived in Melbourne. In September 1856 he joined the Victorian Railways as a lithographic draughtsman and set up its lithographic printing branch. He left the Railways in 1864  had various jobs, was a member of different Artist's Societies, undertook freelance work, lectured and as we saw established the Buonarotti Club in 1883. (4) You can read a  more extensive account of Cyrus Mason's life in an article by Thomas Darragh in Design and Art Australia Online here.

Camping on the road. Artist W.H.O., lithographed and published by Cyrus Mason, 1855

State Library of Victoria Image H83.236/2

Cyrus Mason purchased 282 acres of land around December 1876 from William McKeone (5) and he called the property Woodyats. He was listed in the Shire of Berwick Rate books up until the 1898/1899 book; during this time his occupation was initially listed as a Draughtsman, but later changed to Grazier and towards the end it changed to the more refined Gentleman. Thomas Darragh says he returned to Melbourne about 1900, so this tallies with the entries in the Rate books. At Tynong, Cyrus bred Romney Marsh sheep and was a breeder of some note and participated in Stud Sheep sales, as we see from the advertisement, below.

Annual stud sales including Cyrus Mason's Woodyats stud at Tynong

Sydney Mail August 13, 1887 https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/165222851?

I wanted to find the exact location of Woodyats and the Rate books list the property as Lots 16 & 17, Parish of Bunyip, and it is shown on the 1887 map immediately below. A later map from 1907, created after the Parish of Koo Wee Rup East was established, shows the allotments renumbered as 55C and 55B and part of the new Parish. The property is south-west of Garfield, facing onto what would now be Mont Albert Road. The property was on high ground on  the edge of the Swamp or the on the shores of the Koo-wee-rup Swamp as Louis Lavatar noted (6)

*click on image to enlarge*  An 1887 map showing Cyrus Mason's property, next to what was called Batty Island, the property owned by Thomas Batty. This was before the Koo Wee Rup Swamp was drained, so it would have been surrounded by water. See the 1907 map below, which shows the property in relation to later roads.

Bunyip, County of Mornington,  photo-lithographed at the Department of Crown Lands and Survey, Melbourne,

 by J. Noone 10. 5. 87. [1887] State Library of Victoria Image  http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/204488

*click on image to enlarge*  Cyrus Mason's property, south-west of Garfield, marked with blue stars. I have annotated the map and you can see it is surrounded by the Koo Wee Rup Swamp sub-divisions.

Koo-Wee-Rup, County of Mornington, photo-lithographed at the Department of Lands and Survey, Melbourne, by T. F. McGauran, 1907. State Library of Victoria http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/104853  

In June 1893, Mason wrote a letter to the editor of the Leader newspaper about the Public Works Department, their Swamp drainage works, the hardship the new settlers faced and at the same time displaying  a practical knowledge of the area -
Two years back this May The Age published a letter (7) of mine giving the history of the Kooweerup country from 1847, including the various attempts at drainage, and stating that the volume of water always flowing past my property did not reach Western Port Bay. The Public Works department now admits that my statement made then is correct and explains the disappearance of the water by the process of evaporation. As most of the land included in the evaporating area for the calculation made in my presence by a public works engineer is on the south side of the main drain, and has as much to do with the water on the north side as the Fitzroy Gardens, the evaporation theory is valueless. For many years I have endeavored to deter the Public Works officers from blundering into the Kooweerup country without providing a way out. The winter's rains, unhappily, will compel many of the 20 acre section occupiers to find a way out, as they will be surrounded by water— a result not conducive to settling the unemployed upon the land. Last January I wrote to Mr. Webb, hoping through him to save the reputation of the Public Works department by allowing its officers the credit of the discovery I am now compelled to make known, for the Minister of Public Works in four months has not even favored me with an acknowledgment of my letter. Unfortunately it may take another two years and the useless expenditure of many thousands of pounds to force the truth into the official mind, so the sooner stated the better. 

I have discovered a river in Victoria, hitherto not shown on any map, and quite ignored by the Public Works engineers in their drainage scheme. Altogether apart from the Bunyip River, there is another and far larger body of water, which enters below Garfield the Kooweerup country, spreads out in width for half a mile, having four deep channels flowing westward rapidly, gathers into a volume of faster running water 9 feet deep at the south west, corner of my property, and in a mile disappears in an immense reed bed about a mile and a half south of the 42 mile post on the Gippsland railway. This fast running river forms a chord to the curve of what is termed the main drain, out at the east end through high ground, growing timber which required dynamite for its removal. Not 1 gallon of the Kooweerup River water flows into the Government cut except after excessive rains, but passes underground on its way to Port Phillip Bay, as stated in my letter of May, 1891.

It would be laughable, if not too painful and expensive in results, to see the unemployed trying to make what is called a "subsidiary drain " across this large river! A remarkable work to give the unemployed for the privilege of settling on 20 acres when drained, and affords to us an official illustration of Mrs. Partington with her mop operating against the Atlantic. My statement that the Kooweerup River exists is definite, and can be easily tested— (1) By walking from the Bunyip railway station south one mile to the public works main drain, by the track crossing the whole of the Bunyip River water, women and children have used it for months without wetting the soles of their boots by walking over the river on laid saplings. (2) A 9 foot pole will prove the depth of running water forming my south boundary. (3) It is within the knowledge of everyone who has seen the main drain below Nar Nar Goon during April that only a mere dribble of water from the Ararat Creek flowed in it towards Western Port. Had the Public Works officers examined these three points— included in about eight miles— they must have discovered the existence of the Kooweerup River, and refrained from starting the unscientific theory of evaporation. The Kooweerup River will have to be dealt with apart from the present made drain, which is not made large enough to carry the water could it be taken from low to higher ground. As all my efforts with Ministers and officers at the Public Works department have failed in obtaining any recognition of what might be made an additional and valuable river to Victoria, I bring its existence publicly under notice, and conclude my letter with the invitation I gave Mr. Webb last January, feeling sure of courtesy at your hands. I beg most respectfully to invite your attention to what must be considered the key to successfully open the Kooweerup country, and herewith enclose a tracing showing what I actually know as facts, with that hope that you will order an investigation of the correctness of my tracing before commencing subsidiary channels. I shall be happy to lend my boat, or render assistance to yourself or any officer sent to investigate, and if advised, will meet train at Tynong station with my buggy,— Yours, &c, CYRUS MASON. (8)

Cyrus Mason also created a water lifting scheme - a method to transfer water from a creek into a tank and thus to be used for irrigation and stock water, so he was not only a talented artist but inventive as well. The Australasian newspaper, of December 24, 1892 published an article on this invention -
a simple and economical mode of lifting water, the system brought into use by Mr. Cyrus Mason, J.P., on his property, Woodyats, Tynong, is well worth the attention of anyone having the command of a running stream, and desirous of using it for irrigating green crops, small fruits, vegetables, or for watering stock. As Mr. Mason, when building his wheel, was only desirous of proving its capabilities for irrigating an orchard and perfume garden, also obtaining a head of water to work a hydraulic ram, he authorises us to say that he will have pleasure in communicating information to anyone desirous of constructing a similar wheel. (9)

Cyrus Mason's simple and economical mode of lifting water

The Australasian December 24, 1892. http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article138104822

There were two aspects of Cyrus Mason's life - the engraver and artist who sought the company of like minded people in the Buonarotti Club and the farmer of Woodyats at Tynong. It was his interest in his farm that was, in the end, one of the reasons for the demise of the Buonarotti Club.

L.T Luxton, the writer of the newspaper article I have referred to at the top of this post, quotes an un-named female member of the club and she attributes the decline of the Club to -
Cyrus Mason's move to Tynong. He was elected president. From that point to the time when Cyrus Mason retired to live in the country and the club 'petered out,' three years elapsed-one year as a men's club and two years as a mixed club. A short life if you like, but a very merry one. (10)

Louis Lavater, in the same article, also attributes the demise of the club to the resignation of key members -
"The end of all clubs," replied Mr Lavater, extending his hands, "Chance carried away a few of the dominant personalities, such as Longstaff, Julian Gibb and Cyrus Mason, and soon there were not enough strong personalities left to carry the dead weight of that section which has to be carried in every club. A slow 'petering-out,' and in a year, or two years - gone!" (11)

Family information

Cyrus married Jessy Montagu (nee Campbell) in 1853. They had, I believe, 10 children - I have listed them here with any details I can confirm (12) - 
Cyrus - born 1854, married Louise Scroggie in 1882 and died in 1931 in New South Wales.
Jessy Harriet - born 1855 and died January 27, 1857.
Arthur John - born 1857, married Hattie Adelaide Devol in Kansas City, Missouri. 
Walter and Willie - born and died in April 1859 - Walter on April 15 at 4 days old and Willie on April 22 at 11 days old.
Laura - born in 1860, married Richard MacDonnell in 1883 and died in 1935.
Herbert Reuben - born in 1861, died in 1885 in Queensland.
Valentine Frank - born 1864, died in 1944.
Constance - born 1866, married Frederick Kneebone in 1890 and died in 1952.
Theodore - born in 1867, died in 1947 in New South Wales.

After Cyrus and Jessy left Tynong they moved to Florence Street, Mentone; then to Gordon Street in Sandringham, and from there to Fitzroy and East Melbourne. (13)

Cyrus Mason died August 8, 1915 at the age of 86 and his wife Jessy died November 21, 1909 aged 84. They are buried at St Kilda Cemetery with little Jessy and the babies, Walter and Willie. Also on the headstone, which is shown below, is their grandson, Arthur Robert Mason, Killed in Action in France on August 28, 1918.  There is also the quite unusual smaller headstone on the same grave for Jessy's daughters from her first marriage to George Conway Montagu - Edith who died at the age of 63 in May 1911 and Jane who died in August 1938, aged 93. (14)

The Mason family grave at the St Kilda Cemetery, with the rather unusual second headstone for the Montagu sisters, the step-daughters of Cyrus Mason.

Photo: Isaac Hermann.

We will finish off this post with this beautiful poem, Noon at Woodyats, Tynong, by Grace Elizabeth Jennings Carmichael (1867-1904) , a member of the Buonarotti Club, published in The Australasian on January 21, 1888, under the name of  Jennings Carmichael (15). Grace died in London just before her 37th birthday. You can read more about her short life in her Australian Dictionary of Biography entry, written by Lyndsay Gardiner, here.

Noon at Woodyats, Tynong
It is a day to dream one dream,
And then in full content to die,
Bearing away in memory
The colours of that cloudless sky;
The odour of the fragrant green
As 'mid its seeded spears we lie,
The motion of those throbbing wings
That up the bluey distance fly.

It is a day to dream one dream
Of earthly peace, forgetting all
The bygone gleam of darker days -
The keen cold blast and sullen fall
Of slant grey rain, the leafless range
Of solemn poplars straight and tall.
The burial thoughts mid-year June,
That wrap the earth with sable pall.

A day to dream one dream of trust,
Untortured by foreboding fears,
To drink in joy the breezy gust
That round this spreading lightwood cheers.
To clasp dear Hope with eager arms.
And look with eyes undimmed by tears,
While memory blots away for once
The sorrow of the yesteryears.

In the broad march the colours glow,
Nut browns and blues and shading gold,
Deep purples fill the dimpling clefts
Between the wooded mountain folds.
On yonder gradual slope the clear
Transparent summer-sunlight holds
No wraith of shadow standing bright
Against the circle of the wolds.

A day to dream one dream of rest -
Oh friends, your happy voices ring
So freshly from the glowing lawn
That glistens through the sombre wing
Of yon old fir; sweet is the sound
The echoes to my senses bring.
Fainting soft pictures of content
That ever to the brain will cling.

I ween 'twere happy so to die.
To see this perfect world alight,
Just as the shadow of th' eclipse
Falls in irrevocable might;
To close loth eyes, their vision rich
With earth sweet largesse, full and bright;
Then in that view to sink away
Into the silence of the night.

Sources:
Darragh, Thomas Cyrus Mason in Design and Art Australia Online, see here.

Mead, Stephen The Search for Artistic Professionalism in Melbourne: the activities of the Buonarotti Club, 1883 -1887 in the State Library of Victoria La Trobe Journal No. 88 December 2011, see here.

Trove list: I have created a list of newspaper articles referenced in this post, access it here.

Footnotes
(1) The Argus, August 10, 1929, see here.
(2) Mead, Stephen The Search for Artistic Professionalism in Melbourne: the activities of the Buonarotti Club, 1883 -1887 in the State Library of Victoria La Trobe Journal No. 88 December 2011, see here.
(3) The Argus, August 10, 1929, see here. The 'dear old couple who lived on an island in the swamp' were Thomas and Agnes Batty, I have written about them here   https://kooweerupswamphistory.blogspot.com/2023/10/battys-island-and-thomas-batty-c-1802.html 
(4) Darragh, Thomas Cyrus Mason in Design and Art Australia Online, see here.

(5) William McKeone also spelt as M'Keone advertised his property for sale in December 1876 - it was described as adjoining the Koo Wee Rup Swamp and as one of the nicest little farms within many miles around. I have written about William McKeone in my history of Tynong, here.
(6) The Argus, August 10, 1929, see here.
(7) The Age, May 23, 1891, see here.
(8) The Leader, June 10, 1893, see here.
(9) The Australasian, December 24 1892, see here.
(10)  The Argus, August 10, 1929, see here.
(11) Ibid

(12) Indexes to the Victorian, New South Wales and Queensland Births, Death and Marriages; Personal notices in the newspapers.
(13) Electoral Rolls on Ancestry.com
(14) St Kilda Cemetery headstone transcriptions on Ancestry.com
(15) The Australasian, January 21, 1888,  see here.

George McDonald, Assistant Surveyor, and the Great Swamp

The Argus of June 12, 1863 published this interesting letter written by George McDonald, Assistant Surveyor, about the Koo Wee Rup and Moe Swamps, which at that time were thought to be connected and not separate Swamps. After surveying the area, George McDonald could confirm that the swamps were not connected, but separated by land which was dry and hilly, the hills rising gently and forming a succession of wide valleys. 

George McDonald was the  man who surveyed McDonalds's Track which went from what is now called Lang Lang to Morwell, via Mount Worth. I gave written about George and his track, here. Work to reclaim the Moe Swamp, which was essentially north of the railway line between Darnum and Moe, commenced in 1887. Carlo Catani, Public Works Department Engineer, worked on the Moe Swamp and I have written about it here. The Koo Wee Rup Swamp drainage scheme commenced in 1889, and from 1893 Carlo Catani was also involved in project. I have written about this here.

We will start with two maps, one from 1851 and the other from 1859 which show the Koo Wee Rup and Moe Swamps as one.

1851 map showing the Great Marsh, i.e shows the Koo Wee Rup Swamp

and the Moe Swamp as one.

From: Victoria, or, Port Phillip - the map drawn & engraved by J. Rapkin ; the illustrations by A. Warren 

& engraved by J. Rogers

National Library of Australia https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-232646335/view 

1859 map showing the Koo Wee Rup Great Swamp  i.e shows the Koo Wee Rup Swamp 

and the Moe Swamp as one.

From: Robinson's Road map of Victoria 1859, created by E.L. Robinson

National Library of Australia https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-231373394/view

This is the letter published in The Argus of June 12, 1863 (see here) from George McDonald on his Discovery of good soil where a large Swamp was supposed to exist

DISCOVERY OF GOOD SOIL WHERE A LARGE SWAMP WAS SUPPOSED TO EXIST.

(FROM THE PUBLIC LANDS CIRCULAR, JUNE 10)

The following letter, from Mr. Assistant Surveyor M'Donald to the surveyor-general, is published as indicating good soil where a large swamp was supposed to exist :

Survey Camp, Yallock, May 15.

Sir, - have the honour to inform you that, in compliance with your instructions, I have surveyed a number of lines between the upper road to Gipps Land and the proposed new road to the same district, for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of the country between those roads.

Hitherto it has generally been considered that the country between was occupied by either the Koo-Wee-Rup or the Moe Swamp, the general opinion being that those swamps were connected-one flowing eastward, the other to the west. I have found, however, that such is not the case, but that the country, instead of being a wet and impenetrable swamp, is dry and hilly, the hills rising gently and forming a succession of wide valleys. By the lines which I have surveyed the dimensions of the Great Swamp are considerably reduced and I am inclined to think that by further examination its extent, as shown on the old maps, would be still further contracted; in fact, I believe that the only foundation for the previous opinions as to the existence of the so-called ' Great Swamp ' is a narrow chain of swamps on the west and north-west of its supposed position, formed by the overflow of the Tarwin and Buneep rivers.

The soil of the largest portion of the country over which I passed is of a very rich description, being formed principally of rich decomposed volcanic rock: the remaining part is inferior, being a clay loam formed by the disintegration of a sedimentary rock. The change is instantly perceptible, being marked by a corresponding change in the vegetation, which, from being straight and dense, becomes open and stunted on the poorer soil.

The scrub is not so dense as on the top of the Dividing Range, and is sufficiently open to permit the passage of wild cattle, a few of which I saw, and numerous traces of others, occasionally in places which I would imagine were impenetrable to animals so large.

A plan of my survey, with description of the soil, timber, &c., I have drawn upon the map of the proposed road to Gipps Land.

I have the honour to be, sir,
Your most obedient servant,

George T. McDonald,
Assistant-Surveyor.
C. W. Ligar, Esq., surveyor general.

A visit to Koo Wee Rup in 1886 - part 1

In May 1886 The Leader newspaper had a two-part report of a visit to the Koo Wee Rup area. This was before the construction of the Main Drain. The article mentions Duncan McGregor and Frederick Peers. In March 1875 Duncan MacGregor (1835-1916) and Frederick Peers (1843-1896) purchased parts of the Great Swamp run, previously leased by John Mickle, John Bakewell and William Lyall. MacGregor purchased 3,871 acres and Peers 426 acres, in present day Dalmore (which was named after MacGregor’s property) (1). MacGregor was instrumental in establishing the Koo Wee Rup Drainage Committee which, from 1876, constructed channels to take the water from the Cardinia Creek and the Toomuc Creek to Western Port Bay at Moody’s Inlet (2).

Part one of the report appeared in The Leader on May 8, 1886, it is transcribed below and you can read it on Trove, here. Part two, appeared in The Leader on May 15, 1886, it is transcribed here, and you can read it on Trove, here.

A VISIT TO KOO-WEE-RUP

[By our Agricultural Reporter]

It is really surprising now little is known by the general public about the Koo-wee-rup swamp. A vague idea is entertained by most that good land is to be found there, but the difficulties in the way of draining and clearing are supposed to be so great that the work must be done either by Government or large capitalists. The swamp certainly has an uninviting look, for on the undrained portion of it the tall ti-tree, in many places 20 feet in height, now stretches for miles without a break that the eye can discern, and the no less troublesome looking reeds give evidence of the boggy nature of the ground. One can scarcely wonder then, that when the tide of selection was in flood keen practical men passed it by in disgust and tried their fortunes in the great forest and hazel scrub of Gippsland. It seemed utterly impossible to obtain a footing in the swamp, the green appearance of the scrub on top and the moisture underneath apparently precluded all idea of fire being made the clearing agent; and as it is the watershed of a large tract of rangy country, several permanent creeks running through and spreading their waters over it in flood time, it was thought that enormous difficulties existed in regard to drainage, and the confining of flood waters to their proper channels.

Seeing the waters of so many creeks spread out over such a large tract of country, one would conclude that the natural fall was insufficient, and, therefore, the making of drains would not only be useless but mischievous by allowing the sea water to flow back and inundate the swamp. The fallacy of this is apparent when it becomes known that a fall of something like 80 feet exists in 20 miles, and the visitor, whose idea is that the swamp is a sink which cannot be drained, will have his illusion dispelled by a walk along the embankment of any one of the main drains running south and emptying into an inlet of the sea. The rush of water and the scour which has taken place since the drains wore formed will convince the most sceptical of the facilities for drainage. 

Were it not for a mistaken idea of the difficulties and expenditure necessary to cope successfully with this land it would long ere this have taken up, and instead of the greater portion being as now a mere unsightly waste it would be peopled by scores of thriving families. To reclaim it all that is necessary is a co-operative system of drainage amongst the settlers. Had the entire swamp been taken up in blocks of not larger than 200 acres, and the selectors combined to effect the drainage, it is not too much to say that Koo-wee-rup, instead of being almost impenetrable, would now be one of the most prosperous and productive districts in the colony.

The soil is magnificent, the decomposed vegetable matter and ashes of centuries having accumulated and formed a rich black mould, more like a well-rotted manure heap in appearance than anything else. Such soil should be capable of producing heavy yields of almost any kind of crop, and that it is so has been amply demonstrated by the crops grown on the cleared portions of the land secured by a few adventurous spirits. The growing of crops on the reclaimed portion has not, however, got beyond the experimental stage, for the simple reason that the roads are so bad that it is impossible to get a large quantity of produce to market, hence attention is chiefly directed to the sowing of grass and fattening of stock.

When thoroughly drained — and the sooner this is set about the better — this state of things will no longer exist, for as the ground becomes consolidated with traffic, its capacity to carry heavy loads will be increased, and there will be a prospect of getting the produce to a railway station with a greater degree of comfort, and a less expenditure of vocal exercise of a profane nature than at present.

A large portion of the swamp was offered for sale some years ago, but purchasers were only found for a part, and as care was not taken to prevent any one purchaser acquiring a right to more than one block the portions alienated from the Crown are held by a few settlers in large blocks. The land was sold subject to a drainage fee of 5s. per acre, to be paid to the shire council, and by whom the work of draining was to be carried out. The sum named being considered too small, the council refused to have anything to do with it; therefore, the purchasers formed themselves into a drainage committee, and submitted a plan to the Government which had been approved of by the shire council. This was accepted, and the drainage fee exacted from the purchasers was handed over to the committee, and the work of draining proceeded with. It was, however, found that further calls were necessary, and the work actually performed cost the purchasers 15s. 6d. per acre.

The work carried out by the Koo Wee Rup Swamp Drainage Committee, from 1876.

From Swampland to Farmland by David Roberts, Rural Water Commission, 1985.

In addition to this the more energetic of the landowners, notably Messrs. Peers and M'Gregor, have expended large sums in draining and clearing their land, and the experience gained will be of great practical value to those who follow their example. The difficulties in the way of settlement on the swamps are not so great as might be imagined by looking at the country and compare favorably with those to be met with in the much-vaunted hazel scrub of Gippsland. The expense of preparing the swamp land for the reception of grass seed is undoubtedly greater than in the hazel scrub country, which as a rule can cut for 10s. per acre, but in the latter case the big timber remains and is likely to do so for some generations to come, whereas in the swamp there is no timber which cannot be uprooted by a team of bullocks.

Anyone who has had practical experience in grubbing big trees knows the easiest portion of the work consists in getting the tree down; it is the after labour of cutting up and burning off which takes time. True, the big trees are not, as a rule, taken out, but a certain percentage of smaller ones must be extracted before the land is fit for the plough, and this in addition to ringing and scrub cutting, necessitates considerable expenditure. Then limbs from the large trees are constantly falling and destroying crops, this giving a great deal of extra labor to pick up. A Koo-wee-rup there is good evidence to prove that the cost of drawing and eradicating the scrub will be from £5 to £10 per acre, and when the land is once cleared there is but little further trouble with it. Sometimes the scrub may sprout but as a rule it does not, and a paddock properly cleared presents a beautiful open appearance which contrasts very favorably with the so-called clearing of timbered land.

So little was known of the proper way to cope with the scrub that mistakes were made by those who first attempted to clear, but with the experience gained, the remaining portion, can be reclaimed at a less cost per acre than has hitherto been paid. Several different kinds of scrub are found in the swamp, but two species of ti-tree predominate. These are locally known as white and black ti-tree respectively, the black variety being much harder to get rid of than the white. Hundreds of acres are covered with tall reeds, the roots of which apparently go to a great depth, as they extend deeper than any of the drains hitherto constructed. This renders them somewhat difficult to get rid of, but as stock readily eat them when they sprout after being burned, they are not looked upon as a great nuisance.

Studded over the swamp are numerous small rises or islands (3), the soil of which is composed almost entirely of sand differing widely from the surrounding portions. After the swamp has been drained these will form splendid sites for the erection of homesteads, as they are always dry; and care should be taken in surveying to leave at least one on each block if possible. The soil of the swamp, judging by appearances, is second to none in the colony and is evidently the accumulation of ages.

In cutting the drains on the reclaimed portion, at a depth of 3 feet from the surface, extensive beds of ashes and old slumps are found which go to prove that a growth of scrub existed at a former period which was burned, and over which the present soil has accumulated. At a still greater depth — 5 feet from the surface — are found other, though not so extensive beds of ashes which give evidence of still more ancient fires. Where there is such a mixture of ashes and decomposed vegetable matter the productive qualities of the soil ought to be enormous, and some decisive steps should be taken to admit of its being worked.

It is positively disgraceful that such splendid soil is allowed to continue in its present unsightly and unproductive state, and the Government should have a proper survey made with a view to draining the swamp, and either selling or leasing it to those who would cultivate it, and thus considerably add to the common wealth. Some time ago a party of surveyors did visit it, and partly laid off the route of a main drain or canal, but with the wisdom and foresight for which the Survey department is sometimes remarkable they were sent so late in the season that they were flooded out and had to abandon the undertaking and have since evinced no inclination to resume it. The proposed route of the Great Southern railway runs through a portion of the swamp, and, when constructed, will materially assist in draining it.

Of those who have purchased land a few have been energetic, and the work of reclamation is being vigorously proceeded with, but others are holding back in the hope of being benefited by whatever scheme is carried out by Government. This has been the cause of putting those who have tried to drain and clear to a greater expense than would otherwise have been the case had all joined in one co-operative scheme. The entire fringe of the swamp has been selected, but, as already said, the swamp proper has been taken up by only a few, the portion reclaimed being about 10,000. In the next letter a detailed account will be given of the work performed by these as well as the experience gained as to the best way of eradicating the scrub.

(The Leader on May 8, 1886, see here.)

Part two of this report, appeared in The Leader on May 15, 1886, it is transcribed here, and you can read it on Trove, here.

(1) Gunson, Neil The Good Country: Cranbourne Shire (Cheshire, 1968), p. 125

(2) Roberts, David  From Swampland to farmland: a history of the Koo-Wee-Rup Flood Protection  District (Rural water Commission of Victorua, 1985), p. 9 -10.

(3) Read more about these sand hills, here.

A visit to Koo Wee Rup in 1886 - part 2

In May 1886 The Leader newspaper had a two-part report of a visit to the Koo Wee Rup area. This was before the construction of the Main Drain. Part one of the report appeared in The Leader on May 8, 1886, it is transcribed here and you can read it on Trove, here. Part two, appeared in The Leader on May 15, 1886, it is transcribed below, and you can read it on Trove, here.

A VISIT TO KOO-WEE-RUP. No. II

By Our Agricultural Reporter

One of the most energetic holders of swamp land is Mr. D. M'Gregor, of Coburg. The extent of this gentleman's property in the swamp is 3500 acres, situated about 5 miles nearly due south from the Pakenham railway station. A great deal of useful work has been done here, and good results obtained for the expenditure of time and money. Main drains surround the entire property, and one subdivides it. Between 500 and 600 acres has been reclaimed, the scrub cleared and is now sown down with English grasses. 

The main drains were partly constructed by the drainage committee, but have been enlarged by Mr. M'Gregor; altogether 27 miles of drains have been excavated, varying in width from 3 feet to 12 feet, and in depth from 3 feet 6 inches to 5 feet. The main drains are double, with a space of 30 feet between them, on which all the earth taken out is deposited, thus forming a strong embankment, which is of immense service in keeping back flood water. The outer drain is 12 foot wide by 5 feet deep and the inner one 10 feet by 5 feet. These have been found sufficient to protect the paddocks from the influx of flood water, though a considerable extent of undrained country lies northward, the waters from which are carried by these drains to some of the numerous inlets from Western Port Bay. An important fact in connection with these main drains must not be lost sight of, they act as a secure and permanent fence, which neither cattle nor sheep will attempt to cross. This saves a vast amount of fencing, the material for which comes very expensive, as carting on these bad roads for a considerable portion of the year is out of the question. 

The first work to be proceeded with is draining, and until this is accomplished it is useless attempting anything else. After the drains have been constructed, and previous to any other work being gone on with, it is better to wait and allow the ground to dry. The mistake made by those who first attempted to cope with the scrub was in trying to do too much — they wanted a return for their outlay at once but after experience has proved that it is better to wait and allow the ground to drain and become consolidated. It is found that as the land becomes more dry it shrinks away from the ti-tree roots, leaving them partly exposed; this in most cases is sufficient to kill the white variety.

The next proceeding is to get a fire through it. The dry ti-tree bums readily, and even where it is green if one side is cleared and straw laid along to give it a start a great deal can be destroyed on a hot day.The plan, however, followed at Mr.M'Gregor's in dealing with the green scrub is to lay it with a machine which has been invented by Mr.M'Donald, the overseer. This, like many great inventions, is exceedingly simple, the only difficulty being to find suitable material from which to manufacture it, and some trouble is experienced in this respect. A tree having somewhat the shape of the letter V is selected and sawn off a few feet below where the branches diverge; the limbs are then lopped to unequal lengths. To the longer a team of bullocks, from 16 to 20 in number, is attached. The shorter limb has a curve, which enables it to take a bite of the scrub, and the whole is of sufficient weight to crush down whatever is opposed to it. Sometimes the point of the shorter limb gets broken, and then a splice must be attached by strong bolts, as without the curve inward the work would not be so satisfactorily performed. About 5 acres a day can be laid, and then no trouble is experienced in getting a fire through it. 

The next proceeding is to uproot the stumps which remain, and for this a machine somewhat resembling a heavy sledge is used, with cross pieces shod with iron. This tears up the stumps and levels the ground at the same time. It is followed by an exceedingly strong and heavy rake drawn by two horses and worked by a man and boy. The rake was manufactured according to Mr. M'Gregor's directions by T. Robinson and Co., Melbourne, and is something after the style of an ordinary horse hay rake, but very much stronger and heavier, the teeth being raised by a powerful wooden lever. 

The roots and stumps are gathered into rows and burned, after which the rake is again run over and grass seed sown. With the present plant and the experience gained, Mr. M'Donald is of opinion that, apart from draining, the scrub can be cleared and a seed bed prepared for £2 per acre. It is not considered necessary to plough the land for the reception of grass seed, and the unploughed portion compares favorably with that from which a crop has been taken previous to the sowing down with grass. The reason of this is that the unploughed part is so consolidated by the working of the teams that the roots have a better hold and the soil retains more moisture than where it has been loosened by the plough. 

Clearing the Swamp, Dalmore. This was on E. Simpson Hill's farm and is much later that 1886, but it does give an idea of the efforts it would have taken to clear the scrub.

Image: Gunson, Neil The Good Country: Cranbourne Shire (Cheshire, 1968)

The present aim of those engaged in reclaiming the swamp is to drain it thoroughly, but when this is accomplished it will be interesting to note the result. The chances are that it will then be found necessary to irrigate, for although the natural rainfall is heavy the soil is of a nature calculated to absorb large quantities of water, and it is more than likely that on this and similar places the best results from irrigation will be achieved. If such a course is ever found necessary, all natural facilities are at hand for the thorough carrying out of an irrigation scheme. 

A mixture of several kinds of grass seed is sown; formerly more rye grass than any other sort was used, but in the later sowings this has been discontinued, as it is found the rye grass is apt to die out. The sorts now principally used are cockafoot and Alsyke or hybrid clover; the latter is highly spoken of on account of its coming more quickly than any other kind and its fattening qualities being excellent. Prominence will be given to this splendid clover in the preparation of all future pastures. 

Prairie grass also has been tried with success. The value of this fodder plant has not been so fully recognised as it deserves, the usual complaint being that it is eaten out by stock, which is about the highest praise that could be given to any grass. If prairie is sown with any other grasses stock will undoubtedly eat it out, for it is so sweet that while a root remains all other kinds will be neglected, but if sown by itself, and in small paddocks so that the stock can be changed, few if any other kinds of grass will be found so productive.

 It also makes splendid hay, giving two crops a year, and as only sowing is necessary, it must once, as far as profit is concerned, compare favorably with the cultivation of oats or wheat. At Mr. M'Gregor's about an acre has been sown and kept well eaten down with sheep. Under this treatment it seems to thrive and thicken. The seed from this patch will be saved and sown, next year. 

About 70 acres of oats were sown last year, which gave a return of 58 bushels per acre. This year the experiment of growing two crops will be tried. A paddock has been sown with oats, which are now about 1 foot in height when this is fit it will be cut, and another crop immediately put in. It is considered that the moisture in the soil coupled with the usually heavy rainfall will be sufficient to insure a good result from the second sowing. Root crops do splendidly here, potatoes, carrots and mangels giving heavy yields, but the difficulty of getting produce to the railway station is so great that only a limited quantity is grown. The productive qualities of the soil may be fairly estimated as equal to those of almost any other part of the colony. The splendid black mould extends for a depth of 12 or 15 feet, and judging by that thrown up out of the drains there is no diminution in quality, the soil keeping its character to the depth mentioned. 

All the stock are of a high class. The horses, with the exception of the riding and driving hacks, being pure Clydesdales. Noticeable amongst the brood mares is Maggie, by Roderick Dhu, dam Phyllis, imported. This mare, though rather low, is a perfect model of symmetry, and is now in foal to Lord Napier, a horse belonging to Mr. Watson, of Kyneton. Two yearling colts by the well-known horse Stanley are being kept as stallions; one of these, a bay, whose dam Bonnie Doon traces her pedigree back to Prince Charlie and Black Douglas, promises to develop into something good. The cattle are pure shorthorns of the Booth strain, they are descended from stock bred by Mr. B. M'Dougall of Arundel, the stud bulls used in the herd being invariably purchased from that gentleman. In-breeding has been Mr. M'Gregor's practice to a certain extent, and though the wisdom of this maybe questionable, the young stock here show no falling off in either size or quality. The bull now in use is a very fine animal; he is by the well-known prize taker Sir Roderick.

Mr. Peers is another of the energetic sort, and his estate, Moy Glass, is a model which might well be copied by all future settlers in Koo-wee-rup. When first taken up the estate was a perfect wilderness, the ti-tree being, as a rule, more than 20 feet in height, and had not Mr. Peers entertained the highest opinion of the capabilities of the soil, the difficulties in the way of clearing would have been sufficient to deter him from ever attempting to fit the land for the plough. If his example had been followed by all the present holders the swamp would bear a very different aspect to what it does now. 

The extent of purchased land is 1320 acres, which is subdivided into 12 paddocks. An area of 300 acres has been properly cleared, not a stump or root being left; this is subdivided into 40 acre paddocks. A main double drain surrounds the property similar to that of Mr. M'Gregor. This is estimated to have cost 1s. per cubic yard, whilst the numerous smaller drains have been excavated at prices varying from 4½d. to 7d. per yard, the latter price being given where the ti-tree was exceptionally heavy, and therefore a greater mass of roots had to be contended against. The plan of sub-dividing the estate into small paddocks is to be commended, as the fullest use can be made of them and the stock changed from one to the other as occasion requires. 

Cultivation has been tried, but more as an experiment to see what the land was really capable of than any thing else, as the difficulties in the way of getting produce to market are so great as to be a serious check to anything like extensive cultivation. As an indication of the fertility of the soil the yield of oats has been 60 bushels per acre, while a small patch of potatoes about 3 acres in extent gave a return of 9 tons per acre. On 33 acres which had been laid down under English grasses 534 store sheep were last spring kept for 10 weeks, and at the end of that time sold fat. Mr. Peers's plan of dealing with the scrub is somewhat different to that followed at Mr. M'Gregor's; constant burning is relied on to kill it. When nothing is left but the stumps, a heavy log, having five rows of inch iron spikes driven into it, is dragged along by bullocks, a chain being fastened to each end, by this means the stumps are knocked out or loosened so that they can be picked up and burned. The ground is then ploughed to the depth of about 8 inches, and allowed to lie fallow for a season, after which it is sown down with grass. The first ploughing is very difficult, a team of bullocks and a heavy plough being used to break the soil. The land itself is loose, but the trouble to contend against is the masses of roots and old stumps which are found at a depth of a few inches. 

The paddocks are securely fenced with sheep proof wire fences, these being preferred on account of being less liable to destruction by fire than post and rail. The posts have to be brought by boats from Queensferry. Mr. Peers estimates the cost of draining and clearing his land to be on an average £10 per acre. The stock at present at Moy Glass consists of 50 head of cattle, 16 horses, including 7 brood mares, 530 store sheep and a small stud flock of Romney Marsh sheep about 50 in number. When the Great Southern railway is completed it is Mr. Peers's intention to go in extensively for hay growing; this should be profitable, as a crop of about 4 tons per acre can be depended on.

(The Leader  May 15, 1886, see here.)

Part one of this report appeared in The Leader on May 8, 1886, it is transcribed here and you can read it on Trove, here. This is part two. 

Koo Wee Rup Village Settlement

The Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 published these photos of the Koo Wee Rup Village Settlement. The Village settlement was on the newly drained Koo Wee Rup Swamp, read about this here.

Koo Wee Rup Village Settlement

Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/255107

Settler's House

Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/255107

Scrub cutting

Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/255107

Settler's Homestead

Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/255107

View of Main Drain

Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/255107

Livingstone's Survey Camp

Illustrated Australian News of November 8, 1894 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/255107

The last photo is of Livingstone's Survey Camp. I believe this is William Livingstone. Livingstone, from Warragul, was a surveyor. He was also at one time a Warragul Shire Councillor and the Shire Valuator (1).  In 1893, the Warragul Guardian reported that Messrs. Boyd and Livingston Surveyers, Warragul, have just received instructions from the Lands Department, to survey the Timber Reserve adjoining Neerim North, into blocks ranging from 20 to 80 acres (2).  I assume that he was surveying on the Swamp for the same purpose, even though the Swamp blocks were generally of 20 acres or less. 

The life of a surveyor was an interesting one. This was reported in the Warragul Guardian in February 1894 - Mr. Livingstone, surveyor, had the good fortune to kill no less than 30 snakes by a single stroke the other day. A miner in the vicinity of the Rokeby Village Settlement was just about to drop into his shaft, when, to his horror, he detected a big tiger snake disporting itself in the bottom of the hole. With blanched face he acquainted several men near of the fact, and Mr. Livingstone, getting a 20 feet pole, managed to kill the vicious reptile, which, on being opened, was found to contain no less than 30 young ones. The specimen was so well developed that it was subsequently skinned (3).  Naturally, we do not condone the killing of snakes, they are a protected species.

William Livingston married Ellen Ireland in 1885. She was the daughter of Robert Ireland, a Jindavick pioneer (4).  William died in 1928 at the age of 68, whilst he was giving evidence in a court case. Read about this in The Age, here (5).

Footnotes

(1) Copeland, Hugh The Path of Progress: from forests of yesterday to homes of today (Shire of Warragul, 1934) p. 328.

(2) Warragul Guardian, April 18, 1893, see here.

(3) Warragul Guardian, February 20, 1894, see here.

(4) The date of the marriage comes from the Indexes to the Victorian Births, Deaths and Marriages. The information about Ellen comes from Copeland pp. 45, 46 and 328.

(5) The Age, March 29, 1928, see here.

Life in a Village Settlement on the Koo Wee Rup Swamp

This account of life on the Koo Wee Rup Swamp appeared in the Mudgee Guardian of January 31, 1907. I believe it is somewhat exaggerated, however life certainly was hard for those early settlers. The story took place 'some time ago' - the opportunity for 'half-time employment on the Government drain' mentioned in the article finished in November 1897, so, if true, the story took place before then. The bit about the kangaroo dog stealing the baby and carrying it away for two miles is interesting, given what happened to Lindy and Michael Chamberlain's baby, Azaria, in 1980. You can read my history of the Koo Wee Rup Swamp, here, and other accounts of Village Settlement life, here.

This is the article from the Mudgee Guardian of January 31, 1907, transcribed from Trove, here. According to recent Victorian news the village settlement of Koo-wee-rup in that State contains more concentrated essence of hopelessness than any other alleged village settlement in Australia - not even excluding the experiment in misery at Southport, Tasmania*. Some time ago it seems a man tried to settle at Koo-wee-rup and kept on endeavouring for three months. During that period all his clothes and most of his skin were distributed impartially on the jagged points of the all-pervading ti-tree stumps; his horse, weakened by excessive chewing of ti-tree bark, got into a crab-hole and wouldn't Koo-wee-rup any more; his wife fell into a ' big drain ' twice while trying to go catch eels; his children were chased by black snakes and got lost and sun-struck on their way to the half-time school, four miles up the swamp; goats or some other wild animals from the surrounding forest came in the early morning and demolished the few decrepid cabbages and frost-bitten potatoes in the garden; the native cats killed the fowls; a neighbor, or a neighbor's pig, came in the night and stole his flour and half a sack of onions; and a vagrant kangaroo dog stole the baby out of the gin case cradle, and only dropped it after a two mile chase through the ti-tree. 

Then the inspector decided that insufficient work had been done on the holding to entitle the settler to half-time employment on the Government drain. More ti-tree stumps should be grubbed, he said. The poor devil of a villager had built fences with ti-tree stumps, walled and floored his dwelling with ti-tree stumps, poured them down crab holes in tons, had grubbed them out and piled them up in huge bonfires that scorched his hair and whiskers, and burnt down his fowlhouse; heaps of ashes 6ft deep surrounded the premises, and lay like sand dunes up against the impenetrable wall of standing ti-tree at the back; and all the time the house and garden kept sinking slowly down until they got below the level of the canal, and the water soaked through the floor and put the fire out. 

Yet, despite all this, the inspector wasn't satisfied, for the ti tree stumps increased and multiplied. At every fresh subsidence of the homestead they sprang up like mushrooms. It was no use, so the settler shook the mud from his bare feet and gave the ti-tree stumps best.

The Koo Wee Rup Swamp - Settlements on the bank of the Main Drain.

The 'big drain' which the wife of the settler fell into while trying to catch eels.

Image: The Illustrated Australian News, February 1, 1894.

State Library of Victoria Image IAN01/02/94/4a

* Southport Tasmania Village Settlement - Ladies Relief Committee Village Settlement Scheme, establised in 1894 at Southport, Tasmania. 'The settlement was formed in 1894 to reduce the number of the unemployed in Hobart, and to induce these people to settle upon, and eventually buy some of the waste lands of the colony' Hobart Mercury November 7, 1896). Familes were given land and initially rations and were to become self-sufficient on small farms, up to 25 acres, which they would eventually pay off and own. It was not a success and handed back to the control of the Government in 1898. I have created a short list of articles on Trove on the Soithport Village Settlement, access it here.

Koo Wee Rup Swamp - where birds and beast gather to elect a King

This interesting, but sort of weird, story was published in the Weekly Times of January 12, 1895. It is called False Friends and True and was written by E. Marcus Collick.  I came across it when I was looking for evidence of Lyrebirds on the Koo Wee Rup Swamp (see here)  The fictional story is about a group of birds and animals who have come together to elect their King and they meet on the Koo Wee Rup Swamp (hence my interest). The last King, the Koala, says they have even begun to drain our dear old Koo-wee-rup, the place where our kings have been elected from time immemorial. It's a bit violent  at the end as they go into battle against their enemy, the fishes. Sadly, the Lyrebird, which I am rather fond of, is portrayed as duplicitous and a 'false friend'.   You can see the story on Trove, here.

False Friends and True.

By E. Marcus Collick.

I tell you the Kangaroo is the rightful king of Australia, argued the Opossum.

Prove it, answered the Lyre-bird.

With the greatest of pleasure, returned the Opossum,  first of all, the Kangaroo is the largest and strongest of Australian animals, to say nothing of being the best mannered. Why! just look at the graceful hop.

Like the proverbial cat-on-hot-bricks, snapped the Lyre bird.

And think how fond men are of Kangaroo tail soup, murmured the timid little Wallaby.

Well! all I can say is that I would rather be a biped, than a half and half sort of creature, said the Lyre-bird,  It would simply be a disgrace to Australia to have for a king a creature who might be called anything between a biped and a quadruped.

That's just it, piped the Opossum,  that is his great recommendation, for, besides being the best natured fellow on earth, he is perfectly original. Now tell me, please, what other country can boast of an animal at all like the Kangaroo?

Well! perhaps not, said the Lyre-bird, but originality is not always a charm. I for one don't see that the Kangaroo is anything to be compared to the Emu. Such a retiring, aristocratic bird, advocating women's rights, too. 

New-fangled bosh, growled the Opossum. Women's rights, indeed. The Kangaroo has too much sense to uphold such nonsense.

What is all this? said a deep voice. The trio looked up quickly. and were surprised to see the very gentleman whom they had been discussing.

Oh, Mr Kangaroo, gushed the Lyre-bird, blushingly,  your friend Mr Opossum has just been saying that the Emu has the best right to the sovereignty of Australia. I for one do not agree with him.

Is that so? answered the Kangaroo, casting a look that meant mischief at the modest little Opossum. The talk about friendship, he continued, it seems to me that it is only a guise for the intrigues of interested and politic persons. Allow me, Mrs Lyre-bird, to assist you to a good place, the election is about to begin.

This conversation took place at the Koo-wee-rup Swamp, in the south of Victoria, where the birds and beasts had gathered together to elect a king. The two candidates were the Emu and the Kangaroo, and, as the latter was a very sociable fellow, it was thought that the question of succession would be easily settled.

The performance was about to begin. A general rush towards the place of election began; and here were soon assembled all our Australian birds and beasts - old enemies looking askance at each other out of the corners of their eyes, for by the rules of the place they were forced to be neutral.

An old and hoary-headed native bear was assisted to the chair, followed by a general burst of applause, for this was their last king, forced through old age to resign his position.

My friends, began this individual with emotion, this hearty token of affection is very pleasing to me. I have been your king for many, many years, long before the white men entered our country, spoiling all our hills and valleys with the abominations they call towns. Why, pointing with his paw,  they have even begun to drain our dear old Koo-wee-rup, the place where our kings have been elected from time immemorial (groans.) Ah, he proceeded, well do I remember the time when the only human beings were blacks, and I used to have sweet young piccaninny soup everyday. But things were all spoilt by the whites, because they frightened all the blacks away, and the white piccaninny did not make nice soup - too tough.

Well, my friends, to return to business, I wish you to choose between these two candidates - the Kangaroo and the Emu. Both of these gentlemen are highly respected by me; so put it to the vote!

Then began that commotion which usually attends on such an important performance, each creature endeavoring to drop his vote into the box first. During the fuss the Lyre-bird found time to steal to the side of the Emu, and say It is well seen whom His Majesty the Bear would prefer to succeed him; of course, he only mentions the Kangaroo out of politeness. I think your claim is indisputable.

You traitoress, sneered the Black Snake, who was stealthily creeping past,  I heard what you said to the Kangaroo; so you can just look out for your eggs this year.

When the votes were counted, it was found that the Kangaroo had a large majority; and, after the Emu had solemnly sighed, and exclaimed, Just my luck! the successful candidate made a speech which ended with - And now, dear friends, as you have seen fit to elect me king, I think that we should first subdue that impudent family which has lately separated from us - the fishes.

The successful upholders of the Kangaroo now began to flock round him to offer him their congratulations; among them came the Lyrebird, who said Oh, Mr Kangaroo, of course, we all knew that you would be successful. I am delighted to see you made a parent of this happy multitude.

Thank you, Mrs. Lyre-Bird, answered  the Kangaroo. I am deeply indebted to you for the way in which you have canvassed for me. (He had been informed of this by herself.)

Humph barked the Dingo, a parent of this happy multitude, indeed, it's not apparent to me how he could that!

I am so very glad at your success, murmured the opossum, timidly.

I think I can do without your congratulations, answered the Kangaroo, with more sincerity than politeness.

Oh, please believe that I am sincere, said the poor little Opossum, but the Kangaroo had turned and was talking to the Porcupine.

Some days afterwards the campaign began against the fishes, who had mustered in the Murray for the purpose of election also. Many indecisive battles were fought, but at last the Kangaroo concocted a simple plan which promised success. This was to have a net drawn around a shallow corner of the river, drive a few stragglers into this and attack them, and when the main army, which was in the neighbourhood, rushed down to rescue the net was to be drawn up suddenly above the level of the water. Thus the whole army would be imprisoned, to be slaughtered at leisure.

The post of honor and of danger - that of  drawing up the net at the right moment - had been allotted by the Kangaroo to the Lyre-bird as a reward for services rendered. So Mrs Lyre-bird took up her position on a log jetting out into the stream, and all went well until, when the fishes made their downward rush, and danger seemed imminent, she showed her true colors, grew frightened, dropped the cord into the river and flew away.

The Opossum, happening to glance that way, saw the danger, and without a thought of the way he had been treated, plunged into the stream, seized the cord, and regaining the log, succeeded, by an immense effort, in drawing up the net at the right moment.

The campaign was over; and, tired with his efforts, the Opossum was dolefully trudging homeward, when he heard steps behind him. On turning, he was surprised to see the kangaroo hastening towards him, in a series of graceful hops.

My friend, said the Kangaroo, with emotion, will you ever forgive me?

Oh! there is nothing to forgive, returned the happy Opossum.

You thought I did not notice you, continued the Kangaroo, but I did. Your unselfishness gained our victory, and I know now who was the false friend, and who the true. We must be friends for ever.

The Opossum unhesitatingly agreed, and they shook paws on it.

Lyre birds and Koalas on the Koo Wee Rup Swamp

This interesting article about fauna on the Koo Wee Rup Swamp in 1894 - 1895 - when there were still koalas and lyre birds. It comes from a column in The Argus of September 12, 1934 called Nature Notes and Queries by Alec H. Chisholm. You can see it on Trove, here.

Koalas at Koo-wee-rup
Stating that he has been very interested in the discussion on koalas' food trees, E.A.B. (St. Kilda) recalls that in the years 1894-95 he was camped at the Koo-wee-rup swamp and saw many koalas in swamp gums there. The trees were on a narrow ridge parallel with and about 20 chains east of the main drain, and the ridge was entirely surrounded by real swamp and tea-tree. A young koala taken to camp would climb tea-trees and black-woods, but would not feed there, although he throve on leaves from the swamp gums. That young bear was kept for about three months, and was never seen to drink. The writer wonders, therefore, if the moisture in leaves is sufficient for them.

It is added that the swamp gum ridge was cleared for cultivation and the koalas disappeared. In the clearing of the eastern end of Koo-wee-rup many lyrebirds must have been destroyed.

An illustration of a lyrebird from 1872.

Illustrated Sydney News and New South Wales Agriculturalist and Grazier  June 8, 1872. 

http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63618692

The same column also talks about Lyrebirds on the Moe Swamp in the 1870s.

Lyrebirds Near the Moe Swamp
An interesting bit of history is given by C.P. (Melbourne) in reply to a reader's recent inquiry whether lyrebirds were ever known about the north bank of the Moe swamp. C.P. says that he travelled by the first train that left Prince's Bridge for Gippsland-that was in the 1870's and camped that Easter on the Moe River. It was understood among the settlers then that the "Australian pheasant," as the lyrebird was called, was frequently seen or heard in the vicinity of the swamp.

"People," it is added, "were moving freely about Moe that year as Weinberg, the mailboat carpenter who stole 5,000 sovereigns, was at large somewhere in the district. The police visited our camp at midnight on Good Friday and asked us, should anyone come to us for food, to be sure and let the stationmaster know. At that time there was only one tumble-down building in the Moe of to-day."

Martin Weinberg is alleged to have stolen 5,000 sovereigns in 1877 and was at large - read about him here or here or here.

Life on the Swamp in the early days - from newspaper reports

In 1893, the Koo Wee Rup Swamp was opened for settlement and this created some interest in the newspapers. In fact, a report in the Warragul Guardian of February 6, 1894 commences with So much has been said and written about Koo-wee-rup Swamp, its reclamation works and its people, that it would almost appear that the subject was worn threadbare. (1)

The Unreclaimed Swamp

The Koo Wee Rup Swamp from The Illustrated Australian News February 1, 1894.

State Library of Victoria http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/46198

The settlers were under the Village Settlement Scheme - a scheme where unemployed men from the cities were given a land allocation (usually 20 acres) on the Swamp and they then spent two weeks clearing drains for wages paid by the Public Works Department and two weeks working on their block with the hope of becoming self-sufficient. They also had to erect a dwelling on their block. The first 103 blocks under this scheme were allocated in April 1893.  This didn’t always work as one of the correspondents pointed out that The men are mostly raw to cultures of any kind, and inexperienced in the matter of cutting drains, at which they are to be found employment every alternate week, in order to obtain the wherewithal to procure the necessaries of life. (2) 

Cutting down small scrub - the life of a Swamp settler

The Koo Wee Rup Swamp from The Illustrated Australian News February 1, 1894.

State Library of Victoria http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/46198

The fact that the settlers had some assured wages was a clearly a benefit to the settlers, many of whom had been unemployed. A reporter from The Argus July 11, 1893 interviewed a woman and she had this to say about her new life -
On one of the side drains I met a decent old dame who was busily engaged in stacking driftwood alongside her tent. She explained she was laying in a stock of firewood from what had been brought down by the flood. "Yes," she said, "it's a damp place and a dismal; but what are you to do? My husband is a plumber, and you could count the number of days he was working at his trade last year on one hand. We've been here nine months, and although it's rough enough, we're not going to leave it, especially now when we are getting the chance of a bit of land. There's my daughter, too, and her husband, who is a house-painter. They are living up at the top end (near Bunyip), and their children that were always sickly in Melbourne are fine and healthy. I didn't like the life, and I don't like it now; but where the fun comes in is on Monday morning, when there's no landlord. (3)

One issue the settlers had to face was the lack of schooling. The Warragul Guardian reported on February 6, 1894 - As yet the Government have not seen fit to provide schools for the children, who are running about in scores, and it is estimated that there are 150 children of school ago at the Bunyip end. The neglect to provide school accommodation is a serious reflection on the Education department. (4) The Iona State School and the Koo Wee Rup North State School were both opened in July 1894. Read about them, here.

Iona - looking to the south side of the Main Drain.

Berwick Pakenham Historical Society photo

The Age of January 22, 1894 had a glowing report about the fertility of the soil All down the line of the main drain are settlers' houses of canvas, felt, or weatherboard, and around them are vegetable gardens of luxuriant growth. Nearly every settler is already practically independent of the rest of the world in the matter of food. They would certainly be entirely so if vegetarians. They have potatoes in abundance and of most excellent quality, cabbages weighing from 10 to 15 lb. apiece, turnips of prodigious size, and a multitude of other garden products of really superior quality, and when you taste them you have to confess that the sour land yields very palatable food. (5) [Sour land is a term for acidic soils]

Settlements on the banks of the Main Drain

The Koo Wee Rup Swamp from The Illustrated Australian News February 1, 1894.

State Library of Victoria http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/46198

There were a few shops on the Swamp including a store run by the Government, however for the women used to the range of shops available in the City, they had a very limited choice. Farther on we arrived at a store run by the department in the interests of the settlers. As is known the settlers are allowed to earn certain amounts per month, according to the numbers of their families. The amounts are small and have to be made the most of. It was found that local price for necessaries were beyond their slender means, so this store was opened under the management of the department to supply groceries, clothing, &c., at the lowest possible prices. It is State Socialism without disguise. The goods are retailed at a profit only sufficient to meet the expenses. (6) 

Another report said All the provisions are distributed from the various stores by hand, the storekeepers or their assistants plodding manfully through the heavy mud every afternoon with baskets on their bucks, containing from 90lb, to 100lb. weight of provisions. (7) The same report said that Sly grog-shops and beer shanties are numerous, so the settlers didn’t miss out there.

Public transport was also another benefit of living in the City - however a report in The Australasian of September 29, 1894 seemed to think that the horse tramway was a good alternative to the train and tram network in the City At each end from the railway station along the side of the main channel a horse tramway has been constructed and in this respect few places in the colony, both for railway and postal service, are better served. All these conveniences are appreciated by people who have previously lived in town, and without which some of them would probably not stay at all. (8)

 A settler's home

The Koo Wee Rup Swamp from The Illustrated Australian News February 1, 1894.

State Library of Victoria http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/46198

So, what was the reality– many of the blocks were too wet to make a good living, some were too small – only five acres and even the 20 acre blocks were not necessarily large enough to make a living. The work was hard The men work up to the knees in slimy mud. The surface roots of ti-tree are very numerous, but a second and far more troublesome layer of roots is met with about three feet down.(9) As well, many of the settlers did not re-locate voluntarily – A large proportion of the colonists are artisans from the cities, and the wife of one of these men expressed to us her disgust of her present surroundings, and preference for her old home in one of the suburbs, and there are, doubtless, many others who find the situation trying. Some few have joined the settlement from choice, seeing in it a means of ultimately rendering themselves practically independent. (10) It would appear that the settler’s willingness to move in the beginning had an influence in the success of the scheme.

Many of the settlers relied on the wages they received for working on the drains, however this work finished in November 1897, so unless they could find other employment, or their farm was enormously successful this would have been another reason to leave. The Village Settlement Scheme on the Swamp was abandoned in 1899 and the land was opened for selection in the regular way.

Acknowledgement - I must acknowledge the book  From Swampland to Farmland: a history of the Koo Wee Rup Flood Protection District by David Roberts. (Published by Rural Water Commission in 1985) in preparation of this blog post.

Trove list - I have created a list of articles, on Trove, from 1893 and 1894 which describe life in the Village Settlements on the newly drained Koo Wee Rup Swamp.  You can access it here. All the articles referenced here are on the list.

Footnotes

(1) Warragul Guardian, February 6, 1894, see here.

(2) Australasian June 3, 1893, see here.

(3) The Argus July 11, 1893, see here.

(4) Warragul Guardian, February 6, 1894, see here.

(5) The Age January 22, 1894, see here.

(6) The Age January 22, 1894, see here.

(7) The Argus, July 11, 1893, see here.

(8) The Australasian, September 29, 1894, see here.

(9) Warragul Guardian February 6, 1894, see here.

(10) Warragul Guardian February 6, 1894, see here.