Part one of the report appeared in The Leader on May 8, 1886, it is transcribed below and you can read it on Trove, here. Part two, appeared in The Leader on May 15, 1886, it is transcribed here, and you can read it on Trove, here.
A VISIT TO KOO-WEE-RUP[By our Agricultural Reporter]
It is really surprising now little is known by the general public about the Koo-wee-rup swamp. A vague idea is entertained by most that good land is to be found there, but the difficulties in the way of draining and clearing are supposed to be so great that the work must be done either by Government or large capitalists. The swamp certainly has an uninviting look, for on the undrained portion of it the tall ti-tree, in many places 20 feet in height, now stretches for miles without a break that the eye can discern, and the no less troublesome looking reeds give evidence of the boggy nature of the ground. One can scarcely wonder then, that when the tide of selection was in flood keen practical men passed it by in disgust and tried their fortunes in the great forest and hazel scrub of Gippsland. It seemed utterly impossible to obtain a footing in the swamp, the green appearance of the scrub on top and the moisture underneath apparently precluded all idea of fire being made the clearing agent; and as it is the watershed of a large tract of rangy country, several permanent creeks running through and spreading their waters over it in flood time, it was thought that enormous difficulties existed in regard to drainage, and the confining of flood waters to their proper channels.
Seeing the waters of so many creeks spread out over such a large tract of country, one would conclude that the natural fall was insufficient, and, therefore, the making of drains would not only be useless but mischievous by allowing the sea water to flow back and inundate the swamp. The fallacy of this is apparent when it becomes known that a fall of something like 80 feet exists in 20 miles, and the visitor, whose idea is that the swamp is a sink which cannot be drained, will have his illusion dispelled by a walk along the embankment of any one of the main drains running south and emptying into an inlet of the sea. The rush of water and the scour which has taken place since the drains wore formed will convince the most sceptical of the facilities for drainage.
Were it not for a mistaken idea of the difficulties and expenditure necessary to cope successfully with this land it would long ere this have taken up, and instead of the greater portion being as now a mere unsightly waste it would be peopled by scores of thriving families. To reclaim it all that is necessary is a co-operative system of drainage amongst the settlers. Had the entire swamp been taken up in blocks of not larger than 200 acres, and the selectors combined to effect the drainage, it is not too much to say that Koo-wee-rup, instead of being almost impenetrable, would now be one of the most prosperous and productive districts in the colony.
The soil is magnificent, the decomposed vegetable matter and ashes of centuries having accumulated and formed a rich black mould, more like a well-rotted manure heap in appearance than anything else. Such soil should be capable of producing heavy yields of almost any kind of crop, and that it is so has been amply demonstrated by the crops grown on the cleared portions of the land secured by a few adventurous spirits. The growing of crops on the reclaimed portion has not, however, got beyond the experimental stage, for the simple reason that the roads are so bad that it is impossible to get a large quantity of produce to market, hence attention is chiefly directed to the sowing of grass and fattening of stock.
When thoroughly drained — and the sooner this is set about the better — this state of things will no longer exist, for as the ground becomes consolidated with traffic, its capacity to carry heavy loads will be increased, and there will be a prospect of getting the produce to a railway station with a greater degree of comfort, and a less expenditure of vocal exercise of a profane nature than at present.
A large portion of the swamp was offered for sale some years ago, but purchasers were only found for a part, and as care was not taken to prevent any one purchaser acquiring a right to more than one block the portions alienated from the Crown are held by a few settlers in large blocks. The land was sold subject to a drainage fee of 5s. per acre, to be paid to the shire council, and by whom the work of draining was to be carried out. The sum named being considered too small, the council refused to have anything to do with it; therefore, the purchasers formed themselves into a drainage committee, and submitted a plan to the Government which had been approved of by the shire council. This was accepted, and the drainage fee exacted from the purchasers was handed over to the committee, and the work of draining proceeded with. It was, however, found that further calls were necessary, and the work actually performed cost the purchasers 15s. 6d. per acre.
The soil is magnificent, the decomposed vegetable matter and ashes of centuries having accumulated and formed a rich black mould, more like a well-rotted manure heap in appearance than anything else. Such soil should be capable of producing heavy yields of almost any kind of crop, and that it is so has been amply demonstrated by the crops grown on the cleared portions of the land secured by a few adventurous spirits. The growing of crops on the reclaimed portion has not, however, got beyond the experimental stage, for the simple reason that the roads are so bad that it is impossible to get a large quantity of produce to market, hence attention is chiefly directed to the sowing of grass and fattening of stock.
When thoroughly drained — and the sooner this is set about the better — this state of things will no longer exist, for as the ground becomes consolidated with traffic, its capacity to carry heavy loads will be increased, and there will be a prospect of getting the produce to a railway station with a greater degree of comfort, and a less expenditure of vocal exercise of a profane nature than at present.
A large portion of the swamp was offered for sale some years ago, but purchasers were only found for a part, and as care was not taken to prevent any one purchaser acquiring a right to more than one block the portions alienated from the Crown are held by a few settlers in large blocks. The land was sold subject to a drainage fee of 5s. per acre, to be paid to the shire council, and by whom the work of draining was to be carried out. The sum named being considered too small, the council refused to have anything to do with it; therefore, the purchasers formed themselves into a drainage committee, and submitted a plan to the Government which had been approved of by the shire council. This was accepted, and the drainage fee exacted from the purchasers was handed over to the committee, and the work of draining proceeded with. It was, however, found that further calls were necessary, and the work actually performed cost the purchasers 15s. 6d. per acre.
The work carried out by the Koo Wee Rup Swamp Drainage Committee, from 1876.
From Swampland to Farmland by David Roberts, Rural Water Commission, 1985.
In addition to this the more energetic of the landowners, notably Messrs. Peers and M'Gregor, have expended large sums in draining and clearing their land, and the experience gained will be of great practical value to those who follow their example. The difficulties in the way of settlement on the swamps are not so great as might be imagined by looking at the country and compare favorably with those to be met with in the much-vaunted hazel scrub of Gippsland. The expense of preparing the swamp land for the reception of grass seed is undoubtedly greater than in the hazel scrub country, which as a rule can cut for 10s. per acre, but in the latter case the big timber remains and is likely to do so for some generations to come, whereas in the swamp there is no timber which cannot be uprooted by a team of bullocks.
Anyone who has had practical experience in grubbing big trees knows the easiest portion of the work consists in getting the tree down; it is the after labour of cutting up and burning off which takes time. True, the big trees are not, as a rule, taken out, but a certain percentage of smaller ones must be extracted before the land is fit for the plough, and this in addition to ringing and scrub cutting, necessitates considerable expenditure. Then limbs from the large trees are constantly falling and destroying crops, this giving a great deal of extra labor to pick up. A Koo-wee-rup there is good evidence to prove that the cost of drawing and eradicating the scrub will be from £5 to £10 per acre, and when the land is once cleared there is but little further trouble with it. Sometimes the scrub may sprout but as a rule it does not, and a paddock properly cleared presents a beautiful open appearance which contrasts very favorably with the so-called clearing of timbered land.
So little was known of the proper way to cope with the scrub that mistakes were made by those who first attempted to clear, but with the experience gained, the remaining portion, can be reclaimed at a less cost per acre than has hitherto been paid. Several different kinds of scrub are found in the swamp, but two species of ti-tree predominate. These are locally known as white and black ti-tree respectively, the black variety being much harder to get rid of than the white. Hundreds of acres are covered with tall reeds, the roots of which apparently go to a great depth, as they extend deeper than any of the drains hitherto constructed. This renders them somewhat difficult to get rid of, but as stock readily eat them when they sprout after being burned, they are not looked upon as a great nuisance.
Studded over the swamp are numerous small rises or islands (3), the soil of which is composed almost entirely of sand differing widely from the surrounding portions. After the swamp has been drained these will form splendid sites for the erection of homesteads, as they are always dry; and care should be taken in surveying to leave at least one on each block if possible. The soil of the swamp, judging by appearances, is second to none in the colony and is evidently the accumulation of ages.
In cutting the drains on the reclaimed portion, at a depth of 3 feet from the surface, extensive beds of ashes and old slumps are found which go to prove that a growth of scrub existed at a former period which was burned, and over which the present soil has accumulated. At a still greater depth — 5 feet from the surface — are found other, though not so extensive beds of ashes which give evidence of still more ancient fires. Where there is such a mixture of ashes and decomposed vegetable matter the productive qualities of the soil ought to be enormous, and some decisive steps should be taken to admit of its being worked.
It is positively disgraceful that such splendid soil is allowed to continue in its present unsightly and unproductive state, and the Government should have a proper survey made with a view to draining the swamp, and either selling or leasing it to those who would cultivate it, and thus considerably add to the common wealth. Some time ago a party of surveyors did visit it, and partly laid off the route of a main drain or canal, but with the wisdom and foresight for which the Survey department is sometimes remarkable they were sent so late in the season that they were flooded out and had to abandon the undertaking and have since evinced no inclination to resume it. The proposed route of the Great Southern railway runs through a portion of the swamp, and, when constructed, will materially assist in draining it.
Of those who have purchased land a few have been energetic, and the work of reclamation is being vigorously proceeded with, but others are holding back in the hope of being benefited by whatever scheme is carried out by Government. This has been the cause of putting those who have tried to drain and clear to a greater expense than would otherwise have been the case had all joined in one co-operative scheme. The entire fringe of the swamp has been selected, but, as already said, the swamp proper has been taken up by only a few, the portion reclaimed being about 10,000. In the next letter a detailed account will be given of the work performed by these as well as the experience gained as to the best way of eradicating the scrub.
(The Leader on May 8, 1886, see here.)
Part two of this report, appeared in The Leader on May 15, 1886, it is transcribed here, and you can read it on Trove, here.
(1) Gunson, Neil The Good Country: Cranbourne Shire (Cheshire, 1968), p. 125
(2) Roberts, David From Swampland to farmland: a history of the Koo-Wee-Rup Flood Protection District (Rural water Commission of Victorua, 1985), p. 9 -10.
(3) Read more about these sand hills, here.
